Pakhtoon

Pakhtoon in Bayswater brings the Peshawar and Afghan Pashtun kitchen to central London, and in doing so serves a clientele that includes London's Afghan and Pashtun diaspora, Muslim visitors from the Gulf staying in the area's hotels, and a growing group of London foodies who have figured out that authentic Pashtun cooking is a rare and rewarding find. The restaurant sits in the busy Bayswater strip that has, over years, become one of central London's densest concentrations of halal dining, and Pakhtoon has carved out its particular niche by focusing on the grilled meats, slow-cooked rice dishes, and bread traditions of the Pashtun kitchen. The menu is built around the mashawi grill: chapli kebab with its distinctive flat, spiced patty; seekh kebabs long and thin; chunks of lamb on skewers; whole chickens roasted slowly; and the occasional specialty such as tikka made from lamb chops. Kabuli pulao — the long-grain rice dish layered with lamb, raisins, and carrots, traditional to Afghanistan and Pakistan's north — is a standout on the rice section of the menu, served in portions generous enough to share. Freshly baked naan emerges from the clay oven through the service, and the starters include Afghan salads, chutneys, and small dips. The halal sourcing is strict, the kitchen is free of pork and alcohol, and the commitment is explicit. The dining room is simple and comfortable, decorated with photographs of Pashtun landscapes and people, and the service is warm in the particular way of a kitchen whose staff are mostly from the region they serve. Prices are reasonable for central London, portions are generous, and the takeaway trade is brisk. During Ramadan the restaurant adjusts its service for iftar. For Muslim visitors to London, Pakhtoon is a distinctive and memorable recommendation.